Ding Dong Eight Alarm Chili

Ingredients

• 2 oz dried ancho chiles (4 large), stemmed and seeded
• 6 large garlic cloves, 3 of them finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon salt, or to taste
• 1 1/2 tablespoons ground cumin
• 1 1/2 tablespoons chili powder (not pure chile)
• 4 lb well-marbled beef brisket or boneless chuck, trimmed and cut into 1 1/2- to 2-inch pieces
• 3 to 4 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1 (28- to 32-oz) can whole tomatoes in juice
• 1/4 cup canned chipotle chiles in adobo
• 1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 1/2 lb white onions, chopped (4 cups)
• 1 tablespoon dried oregano (preferably Mexican), crumbled
• 1 to 4 fresh serrano or other small green chiles, finely chopped, including seeds (1 is fine for most tastes; 4 is the eight-alarm version)
• 1 (12-oz) bottle beer (not dark)
• 2 cups water
• 2 1/2 cups cooked pinto beans (optional; 30 oz), rinsed if canned
• Accompaniments: cubed avocado; chopped white onion; shredded Cheddar; chopped fresh cilantro; sour cream

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