I simmered short ribs and mushrooms in broth seasoned with soy sauce to play off the earthy wines. an enrichment of sake and, eventually, delicata squash echoed their fruit. the steaming, soupy meat and vegetables were ladled over boiled soba noodles. with time to spare, i was able to refrigerate the dish overnight so the fat could congeal for easy removal, the benefit of planning.
Short ribs in broth with squash and shiitakes
Time: 3 1/2 hours, plus overnight chilling
6 1/2 pounds beef short ribs, in 2 1/2-inch chunks with bone
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