Lovage Soda

Ingredients

• 4 cups fresh lovage leaves (about 2 ounces), torn into small pieces, plus 12 lovage stems, trimmed to 10-inch lengths, for "straws" (optional)
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon)
• 1 1/4 cups sugar
• 1 teaspoon coarse salt
• 2 1/2 cups water
• Ice, for serving
• 72 ounces seltzer (8 cups), chilled

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